Once your assigned spot comes up it takes us 2-6 weeks to actually create a head or full fursuit. This can vary depending on how many projects I am working on at the same time. 

I use faux fur fabrics that are made from acrylic and other similar synthetic materials. I also use Lycra, felt, fleece and foam. No real fur is used.

Yes. Just put the tail on with a belt and regular trousers, then the ankles of the feet tucked under the trouser legs, and the arms can be tucked beneath a 3/4 length or long sleeved shirt.

The zippers I place down the middle of the front, or middle of the back of a suit. The front is usually my preference as its easy to get to. As well, its a lot easier for the person inside to unzip the bodysuit if it is in the front.

Sorry, but no. I find them too fussy unless I have the person there to constantly tweek them while worn. having padding on a dummy can only show so much!

There is also issues regarding different bodytypes working better or not working at all with digitigrade legs and other forms of padding.

Durable pads are standard on my costumes and are suitable for almost all terrain. They have a nonslip grip pattern and are fairly thick to withstand years of use. Show pads are finished feet bottoms with matching fur or fleece and fabric paw pads. They look awesome and are beautiful for photos and up-close viewing. However, the show pads are not very durable and will take damage if worn over rough, dirty or outdoor surfaces.

My heads are based on either a balaclava with foam shaping, or fully foam. Fully foam is the usual method, though I advise wearing a balaclava under the heads that is removable. That way it can be easily removed and washed.

Though eye construction designs are always evolving, in general the 3D eyes have the best vision. Glass eyes, have less vision because you cannot see through the iris or pupil at all. Instead you see through modified tear ducts and around the edge of the glass eye. Its a sacrifice of vision for realism. I do not use realistic/glass eyes at this time.

The costumes muzzle is lined up very closely with a humans mouth and nose. All breathing is through the mouth of the head, with the muzzle hollowed out underneath to give some extra 'breathing' room. It is very easy to sip a drink through a straw while in costume, most muzzles will also allow a sports bottle to be fitted in the muzzle.

Yes, though keep in mind a few structural changes will have to made to make it fit a human. I would need several good quality photos to show the entire animal. Though, I prefer concept art so we can see every detail and spot/marking on the whole body.

We use our base price as a starting point, and add on the requested details. Eyes, multiple colors, complexity, large tails, hair, are samples of add-ons that will increase the price.

Give me a spieces, or what ever you have in mind and I will see what I can come up with, do take into consideration that concept art DOES cost more. Using artistic liberty for a design however will get you something awesome, usually for a cheaper price too!

You are allowed to make minor changes to the design of the costume before I start work on it. Any changes later than that are not allowed as I have already bought materials. Large changes may require an addition onto the final amount owed on the costume. Please, if you are going to make changes, provide new concept art as I may not remember otherwise.

I will not make any costume that breeches copyrights, such as game characters unless you can send me physical proof from the owner of the character that you are allowed to commission a costume using it.

Other things I will not make are;

Taxidermy eyed suits. Sorry, but I would rather have my costumes well rounded in ventilation and vision, taxidermy eyes have always given low vision in costumes.

Digitigrade padding. As mentioned above, I wont be making digitigrade legs on commissioned suits, they only look 'right' on certain builds, which can be difficult to tell from ductape dummies.

Sergals. A spieces made by someone else that is available for free use, for personal reasons I will decline making them.

Yes, they do! the warrenty on all costumes is 1 year, or 5 conventions. I will do repairs for free if anything breaks during this time that should not have broken.

things that are normal wear and tear include:

Pilling on the fur backing, this is normal! wearing an under-suit under the suit can be much more comfortable.

Claws scuffing, this can be avoided if you avoid dragging your feet. be aware that fursuit feet are larger than your own and require you to lift your feet higher to avoid dragging!

Fur discolouration, this can happen if you leave your costume in direct sunlight for extended periods of time, or just when the suit gets old, this is not something fixable in any case, so avoid keeping your costume in strong light/sunlight!

Fur matting, if you take care to brush areas such as; back, crotch, bum, backs of knees, armpits and elbows alittle extra before and after suiting, you can avoid these high movement areas becoming matted! 

Plastic discolouration, the teeth on most suits are plastic. If you smoke, I reccomend keeping the suit in a container, away from sources of damp, and your smoke. Plastic can be discoloured by smoke!